Entertaining in summer is so much easier than in winter. You can cook outside, which feels more liberating than being glued to the stove, plus you can eat outside, where things always taste better. And, maybe because the summer food is a little lighter, there doesn’t seem to be quite as much washing up afterwards, although I have yet to do a scientific study on this. Today’s recipes were born from last-minute hook-ups with friends, when the sun suddenly started shining and we piled outdoors to eat. The two dishes are tied together by pomegranate molasses, which provides a gorgeous, sweet, sticky sourness. These two recipes work very well served together, or on their own with a simpler accompaniment.
Roast aubergine with tahini, pomegranate and red rice salad
Nutty, herby and fresh, and with a rich dressing, this is great with roast chicken. It also works beautifully just as it is, with or without a crumble of cheese. Serves six to eight.
4 aubergines
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
120ml extra-virgin olive oil
5 tbsp pomegranate molasses
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
For the salad
500g red rice
60g tahini
6 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp olive oil
5 tbsp yoghurt
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
150g currants
2 bunches fresh dill
1 bunch fresh mint
1 bunch fresh parsley
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
60g shelled pistachios, very roughly chopped
Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Top and tail the aubergines and cut them into 3-4cm dice. Put these in a large roasting tin, season generously and toss in the oil, molasses and garlic. Roast for 40-50 minutes, until the aubergine is soft, golden and slightly blackened.
While the aubergine is roasting, put the rice in a large saucepan and add cold water to cover. Stir around, to encourage the rice to release its starch, then drain and repeat a few times, until the water runs clear. Cover the washed rice with a litre of cold water (or stock), season well and bring to a boil. Simmer gently, according to packet instructions: the grains should be tender but still have a light bite in the centre. Once cooked to your liking, drain the rice and put in a bowl. Using a stick blender, whizz the tahini, lemon, oil, yoghurt and crushed garlic, season and toss through the rice while it’s still warm, then leave the flavours to soak in.
Soak the currants in warm water for 15 minutes and drain. Wash the herbs, then pick the leaves and roughly chop. Toss the currants, herbs and shallots through the rice.
By now, the aubergines should be ready. Pour any pan juices over the rice, then top with the aubergine cubes, scatter with the pistachios and serve.
Turkish kofte with chopped salad
These richly spiced meatballs are evocative of the Levant, especially when served with this light, crunchy, chippy-choppy salad. I love them with flatbreads, a dollop of yoghurt and some fiery chilli sauce. Serves four to six.
1 onion, peeled
1 small bunch fresh mint
1 large bunch fresh parsley
300g lamb mince
300g beef mince
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp grated nutmeg
1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 red chilli, finely chopped (optional)
1½ tsp salt
For the salad
½ small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
10 radishes, roughly chopped
10 baby tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 little gem lettuces, roughly chopped
1 large handful parsley leaves, roughly chopped
1 tbsp lemon juice
40ml pomegranate molasses
40ml extra-virgin olive oil
If you want to cook your kofte on a barbecue, light it before you start on anything else. Grate the onion into a sieve, then push and squeeze out most of the liquid. Finely chop the herbs, setting aside half the parsley for the salad. Put the herbs in a large bowl with the grated onion, mince, spices and salt, and mix with your hands until very well combined. Shape around skewers into flat meatball shapes or patties, dividing the mixture according to how many people you are feeding and how many kofte you want everyone to have. Cover and chill for at least an hour (you can prepare the kofte to this point up to 12 hours ahead).
Meanwhile, make the salad. Toss the onion, radishes, tomatoes, lettuce and parsley in a large bowl. Whisk together the lemon, pomegranate molasses and oil, season and pour over the salad. Toss to combine, then season to taste.
Heat a frying pan or griddle greased with a little oil (or barbecue grill), and cook the kebabs until golden brown all over and cooked to your taste (I like them still slightly pink and juicy). Eat at once with flatbreads (heat them on the griddle, in a large dry frying pan or over the barbecue), yoghurt and your favourite chilli sauce.
And for the rest of the week…
Leftover currants are a great addition to flapjacks for a tea-time snack – for a more savoury approach, go lower on the sugar and enrich the mix with tahini. If you have any leftover herbs, chop them finely and stir into Greek yoghurt or fromage frais – that makes a gorgeous filling for jacket potatoes, with or without grated cheese, as well as a lovely dressing for flaked smoked mackerel. The kofte are very easy to make, so double the quantity and freeze half. Lastly, try drizzling some pomegranate molasses over vanilla ice-cream: its sourness adds a delicious touch.
